Brake Pads

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BlackOps

BlackOps

Winger
Been doing some work on me own car over the last year. Started by doing simple service like oil n air filters etc. Changed rear spring last month which went well.
Audible warning on me brake pads have started on my rears so looking to change them. Any easy mistakes to watch out for or hints n tips? Its canny tinkering on with stuff like. Never thought i would enjoy it. Saves a hell of a lot of cash as well
 
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BlackOps said:
Been doing some work on me own car over the last year. Started by doing simple service like oil n air filters etc. Changed rear spring last month which went well.
Audible warning on me brake pads have started on my rears so looking to change them. Any easy mistakes to watch out for or hints n tips? Its canny tinkering on with stuff like. Never thought i would enjoy it. Saves a hell of a lot of cash as well
Click to expand...
It's great!

If you've got an electric handbrake you'll likely (but not always) need a diagnostics machine to wind the callipers back. If they are just standard then you'll still need a special tool to wind them back, one of these:

Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252216197255

UNIVERSAL BRAKE CALIPER PISTON REWIND WIND BACK TOOL KIT 22 PIECE SET NEW

I've got one you can use if you're stuck. Don't wind the caliper back too quickly as it can sometimes damage the master cylinder, just do it slow and controlled.

Keep note of which pads go in which side of the caliper as often there's slight differences between the inner and outer pad.

Clean all surfaces with a wire brush before putting the new pads in place and use copper slip (proper brake grease) on the surfaces that contact the pad carrier (not the disc and caliper surfaces) to allow them to slide freely.

Ensure all bolts are tight.

Swap the pad sensor over from the old pads to the new.

Most importantly prime the brake pedal 5 or 6 times before driving it :lol:

Disclaimer: this advice was offered free of charge and is for information purposes only and I hold no responsibility for poor workmanship. I recommend a professional carries out the work.
 
Above covers it nicely. Only thing I'll add is that when I do it I undo the brake fluid reservoir cap. I'm not sure if your car needs it but I figure your pushing the fluid back through the system, it's easier if there is no pressure the the reservoir to push against
 
anth said:
Above covers it nicely. Only thing I'll add is that when I do it I undo the brake fluid reservoir cap. I'm not sure if your car needs it but I figure your pushing the fluid back through the system, it's easier if there is no pressure the the reservoir to push against
Click to expand...
Aye do this as it stops it covering your paintwork if the pressure increases.
 
Goat Eyes said:
It's great!

If you've got an electric handbrake you'll likely (but not always) need a diagnostics machine to wind the callipers back. If they are just standard then you'll still need a special tool to wind them back, one of these:

Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252216197255

UNIVERSAL BRAKE CALIPER PISTON REWIND WIND BACK TOOL KIT 22 PIECE SET NEW

I've got one you can use if you're stuck. Don't wind the caliper back too quickly as it can sometimes damage the master cylinder, just do it slow and controlled.

Keep note of which pads go in which side of the caliper as often there's slight differences between the inner and outer pad.

Clean all surfaces with a wire brush before putting the new pads in place and use copper slip (proper brake grease) on the surfaces that contact the pad carrier (not the disc and caliper surfaces) to allow them to slide freely.

Ensure all bolts are tight.

Swap the pad sensor over from the old pads to the new.

Most importantly prime the brake pedal 5 or 6 times before driving it :lol:

Disclaimer: this advice was offered free of charge and is for information purposes only and I hold no responsibility for poor workmanship. I recommend a professional carries out the work.
Click to expand...

He he cheers. I do infact have an electric hand brake. Hate it. Watched a couple of videos where this has been turned off and car put in first and chocked before being put up on axle stands. Never thought about leccy brake.
I do have a caliper tool to push cylinder back in to fit new pads but seen people use the old pad to give leverage and push cylinder in with a screw driver slowly.
Trust me,with being new to this the first sign of trouble it will be going to uncles garage for the experts :lol: just like to be independent

anth said:
Above covers it nicely. Only thing I'll add is that when I do it I undo the brake fluid reservoir cap. I'm not sure if your car needs it but I figure your pushing the fluid back through the system, it's easier if there is no pressure the the reservoir to push against
Click to expand...

Yeah, i know to do that before pushing cylinder back in and fitting new ones
 
BlackOps said:
He he cheers. I do infact have an electric hand brake. Hate it. Watched a couple of videos where this has been turned off and car put in first and chocked before being put up on axle stands. Never thought about leccy brake.
I do have a caliper tool to push cylinder back in to fit new pads but seen people use the old pad to give leverage and push cylinder in with a screw driver slowly.
Trust me,with being new to this the first sign of trouble it will be going to uncles garage for the experts :lol: just like to be independent



Yeah, i know to do that before pushing cylinder back in and fitting new ones
Click to expand...
A screwdriver won't work on rear pads as they're on a threaded shaft, need to be wound back.

With electric handbrake it also depends, some can be wound back manually but most need the machine. If it's a VW it's definitely a machine.
 
Goat Eyes said:
A screwdriver won't work on rear pads as they're on a threaded shaft, need to be wound back.

With electric handbrake it also depends, some can be wound back manually but most need the machine. If it's a VW it's definitely a machine.
Click to expand...

Vauxhall astra 10 plate. Hmm might after put it off then
 
Goat Eyes said:
It's great!

If you've got an electric handbrake you'll likely (but not always) need a diagnostics machine to wind the callipers back. If they are just standard then you'll still need a special tool to wind them back, one of these:

Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252216197255

UNIVERSAL BRAKE CALIPER PISTON REWIND WIND BACK TOOL KIT 22 PIECE SET NEW

I've got one you can use if you're stuck. Don't wind the caliper back too quickly as it can sometimes damage the master cylinder, just do it slow and controlled.

Keep note of which pads go in which side of the caliper as often there's slight differences between the inner and outer pad.

Clean all surfaces with a wire brush before putting the new pads in place and use copper slip (proper brake grease) on the surfaces that contact the pad carrier (not the disc and caliper surfaces) to allow them to slide freely.

Ensure all bolts are tight.

Swap the pad sensor over from the old pads to the new.

Most importantly prime the brake pedal 5 or 6 times before driving it :lol:

Disclaimer: this advice was offered free of charge and is for information purposes only and I hold no responsibility for poor workmanship. I recommend a professional carries out the work.
Click to expand...
Top advice as usual. Il add i usualy disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper when winding slowly back, a lot of mechs dont but does no harm imo, and take the lid off the brake fluid resivour to ease the pressure with the piston pushing fluid in reverse.

Goat Eyes said:
Oh and use Pagid or Brembo pads not the cheap shite.
Click to expand...
Doing my rear discs and pads soon on the focus, usualy go for mintex but as you say dont bother with cheap shite.
 
Last edited:
yamar1 said:
Top advice as usual. Il add i usualy disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper when winding slowly back, a lot of mechs dont but does no harm imo, and take the lid off the brake fluid resivour to ease the pressure with the piston pushing fluid in reverse.


Doing my rear discs and pads soon on the focus, usualy go for mintex but as you say dont bother with cheap shite.
Click to expand...
Aye Mintex are decent too.

I've got an account for a national aftermarket parts distributor which has a half decent trade discount. Purely a cash account so no worries.

Give a shout if anyone wants to use it. @BlackOps too.
 
Goat Eyes said:
Aye Mintex are decent too.

I've got an account for a national aftermarket parts distributor which has a half decent trade discount. Purely a cash account so no worries.

Give a shout if anyone wants to use it. @BlackOps too.
Click to expand...

Cheers goat mate. I know a lad at CTS in shields who will help me out. Thanks for the advice anarl. Always good to know being a novice
 
BlackOps said:
Cheers goat mate. I know a lad at CTS in shields who will help me out. Thanks for the advice anarl. Always good to know being a novice
Click to expand...
Use cts myself always decent prices from there. Got a fiesta luk 3 part clutch kit from there a couple of weeks ago for £120. Couldnt find an luk kit anyware else for less than £145. Happy days.
 
In regards to the twisting piston. Been looking online and seen one of these cube like tools which are said to fit most rotating pistons. One of the do to get the piston back in?
 
BlackOps said:
In regards to the twisting piston. Been looking online and seen one of these cube like tools which are said to fit most rotating pistons. One of the do to get the piston back in?
Click to expand...
It'll probably work but what I posted above will fit nearly every type of car. Go to Machine Mart or CTS and they'll sell the same.
 
BlackOps said:
In regards to the twisting piston. Been looking online and seen one of these cube like tools which are said to fit most rotating pistons. One of the do to get the piston back in?
Click to expand...
Dont bother with the windback cube tool. The windback full kit can be had for under £20 these days and its a steal tbh.


Edit.

Just seen the one goaty linked earlyer on ebay. Its a no brainer for the price. Same parts in mine by the looks of it.
 
I always do my pads and discs myself but this is the 1st car I've had with an electronic handbrake - astra GTC.
So does anyone know if I can wind in the rear pistons myself or does it need to go to a garage?
 
jackynutmeg said:
I always do my pads and discs myself but this is the 1st car I've had with an electronic handbrake - astra GTC.
So does anyone know if I can wind in the rear pistons myself or does it need to go to a garage?
Click to expand...
I'll let you know next week. My mate us a technical trainer for Vauxhall.
 
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