Auto Electrics

Edit, just seen this.

If it’s working it won’t need to go anywhere as it’s not needed and it’s being detected anyway

Seems he has it working now, my fault not reading the full thread, as usual.
Yeah I think it’s producing a picture by the sounds of it, just needs the trigger to tell it when to activate and possible ground if he’s seeing any flickering or potentially any long delays before activating.

@houst69 what year and model have you got an I’ll see if I can find the pin out for your original head unit wiring harness.
 


Edit, just seen this.

If it’s working it won’t need to go anywhere as it’s not needed and it’s being detected anyway

Seems he has it working now, my fault not reading the full thread, as usual.
Yeah I think it’s producing a picture by the sounds of it, just needs the trigger to tell it when to activate and possible ground if he’s seeing any flickering or potentially any long delays before activating.

@houst69 what year and model have you got an I’ll see if I can find the pin out for your original head unit wiring harness.
cheers for this its a Dacia Duster Prestige 2017
 
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So the reverse trigger cable from retention kit goes into number 3? How does it go in as it has a rubber end? 😂 Hopeless with out like this
just reading the blurb on that eBay advert and it’s saying no splicing required. What it does say is mk1 dusters up to 2017. You haven’t got a mk2 by any chance have you?
Cracking info that, are you an auto elec?
Nah 😜 I retrofitted idrive, the upgraded 13 speaker hifi, apple CarPlay and things like powerfolding mirrors to my 2010 3 series.

Have a deek at that 24 pin cable that came with your new head unit. If pin 3 and 21 have a wire in them I’d be tempted to just lop the connectors off the trigger and ground and splice into the corresponding wires on that extension. If you do just make sure to give yourself plenty wire left in case you need to reconnect the connectors.

You can get ‘proper’ wire taps or just splice it, if you splice it and it works if you’re that bothered you could just get some wiretaps and make it a bit more proper but as long as it’s secure and covered in electrical tape you’ll be fine.
 
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just reading the blurb on that eBay advert and it’s saying no splicing required. What it does say is mk1 dusters up to 2017. You haven’t got a mk2 by any chance have you?

Nah 😜 I retrofitted idrive, the upgraded 13 speaker hifi, apple CarPlay and things like powerfolding mirrors to my 2010 3 series.

Have a deek at that 24 pin cable that came with your new head unit. If pin 3 and 21 have a wire in them I’d be tempted to just lop the connectors off the trigger and ground and splice into the corresponding wires on that extension. If you do just make sure to give yourself plenty wire left in case you need to reconnect the connectors.

You can get ‘proper’ wire taps or just splice it, if you splice it and it works if you’re that bothered you could just get some wiretaps and make it a bit more proper but as long as it’s secure and covered in electrical tape you’ll be fine.
Great fun isnt it. Same here, retrofititted sync3 into my 2012 focus, just pulled it all out again as I’m moving the car on. Some challenges with the wiring and programming via forscan but ido like a challenge. Just been getting an ST3 with it all ready in so il be selling my old sync3 kit to recoup some funds.
 
Great fun isnt it. Same here, retrofititted sync3 into my 2012 focus, just pulled it all out again as I’m moving the car on. Some challenges with the wiring and programming via forscan but ido like a challenge. Just been getting an ST3 with it all ready in so il be selling my old sync3 kit to recoup some funds.
Swapping the dash out was an arse nipping moment like, including having the steering wheel off. Does give you a sense of achievement when it’s all done and working and the couple of grand I spent on bits has saved me buying a new car. I’ve had that 3 series 10 years now and just don’t do the mileage to warrant buying a new one.

I cannot really see how infotainment systems are going to move on much further where you feel like you’re missing somet major including the other mod cons the cars come with, so yeah any car you buy now is probably going to have everything you need realistically.

The programming wasn’t too bad with the 3 series as it was quite an open system, the harder part was there’s about 5 different bits of software needed to allow you to code everything, but there plenty of material online for my car as it is/was quite common so you always got there in the end.
 
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just reading the blurb on that eBay advert and it’s saying no splicing required. What it does say is mk1 dusters up to 2017. You haven’t got a mk2 by any chance have you?

Nah 😜 I retrofitted idrive, the upgraded 13 speaker hifi, apple CarPlay and things like powerfolding mirrors to my 2010 3 series.

Have a deek at that 24 pin cable that came with your new head unit. If pin 3 and 21 have a wire in them I’d be tempted to just lop the connectors off the trigger and ground and splice into the corresponding wires on that extension. If you do just make sure to give yourself plenty wire left in case you need to reconnect the connectors.

You can get ‘proper’ wire taps or just splice it, if you splice it and it works if you’re that bothered you could just get some wiretaps and make it a bit more proper but as long as it’s secure and covered in electrical tape you’ll be fine.
Mark 1 duster
 
Mark 1 duster
Sound. Try the below and you should hopefully have it wrapped up

Have a deek at that 24 pin cable that came with your new head unit. If pin 3 and 21 have a wire in them I’d be tempted to just lop the connectors off the trigger and ground and splice into the corresponding wires on that extension. If you do just make sure to give yourself plenty wire left in case you need to reconnect the connectors.

You can get ‘proper’ wire taps or just splice it, if you splice it and it works if you’re that bothered you could just get some wiretaps and make it a bit more proper but as long as it’s secure and covered in electrical tape you’ll be fine.
 
Sound. Try the below and you should hopefully have it wrapped up

Have a deek at that 24 pin cable that came with your new head unit. If pin 3 and 21 have a wire in them I’d be tempted to just lop the connectors off the trigger and ground and splice into the corresponding wires on that extension. If you do just make sure to give yourself plenty wire left in case you need to reconnect the connectors.

You can get ‘proper’ wire taps or just splice it, if you splice it and it works if you’re that bothered you could just get some wiretaps and make it a bit more proper but as long as it’s secure and covered in electrical tape you’ll be fine.
Thanks will try tomorrow
 
Thanks will try tomorrow
Before you splice owt, see if that trigger connector plugs into anything that came with your head unit, particularly the chunky Harness called the ISO power cable Android head unit first little imagine on page 13 of 14. With them saying there’s no splicing required you may hopefully find it just plugs into something on that connector, I’d also check the instruction manual that came with it as it should be shown in there as it will be very common for the OEM rear camera to be used with your setup and this new head unit.
 

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