VW car - EGR valve needs replacing
- Thread starter Fletch
- Start date
a1970man
Striker
I had a Citroen C5 HDI and covered 210k in it.
It did start to throw errors, even though I do +20k a year.
I resolved it all by buying 3 lots of Wynns DPF cleaner and tipping one in on a full tank 3 times in a row.
Loads of smoke and soot for the first 100 miles then cleaned itself out.
Did it once a year to keep it shiney and new in there.
I did use the odd tin of EGR cleaner as well, just spray into the air intake a squirt at a time until you have used the whole can.
I also had to use an ODBII tool of ebay (£5) to reset the errors once the cleaning had sorted it all the muck out, they didnt come back on, so it must have worked.
It did start to throw errors, even though I do +20k a year.
I resolved it all by buying 3 lots of Wynns DPF cleaner and tipping one in on a full tank 3 times in a row.
Loads of smoke and soot for the first 100 miles then cleaned itself out.
Did it once a year to keep it shiney and new in there.
I did use the odd tin of EGR cleaner as well, just spray into the air intake a squirt at a time until you have used the whole can.
I also had to use an ODBII tool of ebay (£5) to reset the errors once the cleaning had sorted it all the muck out, they didnt come back on, so it must have worked.
Fletch
Striker
how the feck have i been quoted £1400 by vw
dealers have a nasty habit of taking peoples eyes out.how the feck have i been quoted £1400 by vw
Kevsgreat
Striker
I get about 45 from my petrol Golf over longer journeys mind. Though round the doors it's closer to 25.
daventry cat
Striker
Volkswagen Group to give two-year warranty on emissions recall work
other advice is to drive it like you stole it
other advice is to drive it like you stole it
Fletch
Striker
mine is/was 6weeks over its warranty when I contacted Pulman
Goat Eyes
Striker
Ask for some goodwill...
The fact it’s a four wheel drive makes not a jot of difference to the EGR valve. The fact you drive a 4WD does as the perception is you have money to burn.
I’d go down the delete route, yes it’s illegal, yes it’ll fail if the light comes on but the reality is there’s still people out there doing it and without the light.
If the first ones fucked in 3 years are you prepared to pay another £1400 in another three years?
Also, price up an aftermarket part, bet you could slash that £1400 in half easily.
daventry cat
Striker
This^^^^ the you tube video was only 12 mins iirc may not be a huge task. Also saw someone had it go 3 times in 40k miles
Is it 150bhp, though, with 236ft-lbs of torque? It’s a GTTDi! No equivalent petrol gets anywhere near the fuel economy I stated. It’s not a raging hot hatch by today’s standards, but it’s bloody quick and tremendous fun to drive. Top speed is 130mph! Overtaking is amazing.
If I nurse it in 6th gear on a long motorway run, I could break into the 50mpg territory. Can’t be arsed with that mind! I don’t think I’ve ever got less than 40mpg average, even when I’ve been hammering it a bit. It seems to have very consistent fuel consumption, I’ve never had any nasty surprises.
Sadly, my beloved Golf has been mothballed and is now sorned. The wife (no) finds it too difficult to get into it so now I’m driving a shitheap of a Freelander TD4, which is the worst money pit I’ve ever owned. One of the biggest mistakes I ever made.
they are mind. the golf will sell no bother.
Not selling! The keys will have to be prised from my cold, dead fingers.
I plan on getting it tidied up, new alloys etc and taking it out occasionally in the spring/summer.
It’s also a back up for when the Freelander is knackered, which will be frequently.
Might as well put it back on the road now, thinking about it...
I wish I’d bought a RAV4 or an X-Trail instead of a bastard LR.
one of the last old school reliable smokers. always fancyed one, but stick with ford 1.8diesel as know them inside out and the 1.8td is bulletproof. yeah youve dropped a clanger, my mate has the 2.2d toyota auris (Same engine in the rav) on a 08 plate, its a cracking car and he hasnt had a pick of bother with it.Not selling! The keys will have to be prised from my cold, dead fingers.
I plan on getting it tidied up, new alloys etc and taking it out occasionally in the spring/summer.
It’s also a back up for when the Freelander is knackered, which will be frequently.
Might as well put it back on the road now, thinking about it...
I wish I’d bought a RAV4 or an X-Trail instead of a bastard LR.
Well cheers for that, I feel so much better now!
Lengthy post ahead, won’t interest, well, anybody TBH!
It’s an old Freelander Sport, mind. 2004! Is has around 98k on it and the bodywork is very good. It runs, and most of the problems I’ve fixed myself. I’m gradually replacing the window regulators. Drivers was the first, passenger is OK, NSR is bust, OSR regulator is groaning, but might just need a lube. All faults I fully expected.
I’ve done the driver’s central locking unit, the NSR needs doing.
The tyres all have rim leaks, including the spare! Whoever did the tracking before I got it forgot to centre the steering wheel, idiots. Minor irritations I’ll be getting sorted when I get the chance.
Now the worst bit...
It vibrated like fuck around 50mph+. Put it in to Les Potts, kept it for a couple of days trying to track down the fault, turned out the front prop shaft section was buggered. My wallet was...wait for it...£700 lighter!
It was touch and go whether I was going to get the work done.
Then this...
Not getting up to temperature, heater cold. Knew it was the thermostat and it’s in an awkward place so gave it to Les Potts.
Price of a thermostat replacement on a Freelander...?
Over £600. Yes, six hundred quid! It’s actually the going rate as it’s a big, lengthy job. The part’s only about 50 quid.
No way was I paying that so I brought it home and had a think. I could do it myself, which I know I’m competent enough, but I’m a lazy bastard so looked at alternatives.
The fix? A five quid Renault 5 in-line thermostat stuffed into the engine end of the radiator hose! Now it gets to temperature like any normal diesel- in about an hour!
I got the tip from a forum. Not surprisingly it’s a popular mod.Now I need to sort out the smoking when cold. It runs perfectly when it’s been going for a few minutes, but has a lumpy, rough idle when just started. One thing I need to sort pronto before the engine self destructs is the oil level, which is well over an inch higher than the max. I’m going to get a pump and draw it out through the dipstick. Maybe that’s the problem? The breather filter mod had already been done, so I ruled that out. When I took the intake manifold off to do the thermostat mod, I found the airways on the manifold and block were lined with about 1/4” of coke, blocked like a fat bastard’s arteries! Any tips for cleaning it off, ie horrible noxious, toxic chemicals? I’ve no problem taking the manifold off to do it, that’s one job that’s a doddle on the TD4!
The only other thing to sort is the OSR door strap. The mount that’s part of the bodywork has snapped clean off. The proper fix is to get it welded. That’s a really shit design, why didn’t they just bolt it on?! I’ll probably fabricate something to sort it.
Apart from all that, it’s a tremendous motor! Seriously, it’s a nice enough drive and very comfortable, but I just know these are just the start of my problems.
Kevsgreat
Striker
No mate, it's about 120bhp, Parkers say it has 148ft-lbs of torque and the top speed is 124mph. Can't say I've ever had it up to that speed since I don't fancy a ban.
I was just giving a petrol owners point of view of the same model of car, from the information provided in the quoted post, to maybe give a bit of a comparison since you were talking about dreading what you might get from a petrol engine equivalent.
Cheers! I wasn’t meaning to sound like I was having a dig, sorry if it came across that way.
It’s just a lot of the time you hear things from petrol owners like ‘45mpg’? That’s nowt! My 1L Citroen C1 gets 60+mpg!’ Then I’m thinking ‘Well aye, but... never mind!’
The 130mph was the figure from the spec, BTW! 130mph on public roads could land you in jail.
a good decoke will require the head off. if you try with it on you will knock the coke into the valve inlets. awful job avoid it if you can.Well cheers for that, I feel so much better now!
Lengthy post ahead, won’t interest, well, anybody TBH!
It’s an old Freelander Sport, mind. 2004! Is has around 98k on it and the bodywork is very good. It runs, and most of the problems I’ve fixed myself. I’m gradually replacing the window regulators. Drivers was the first, passenger is OK, NSR is bust, OSR regulator is groaning, but might just need a lube. All faults I fully expected.
I’ve done the driver’s central locking unit, the NSR needs doing.
The tyres all have rim leaks, including the spare! Whoever did the tracking before I got it forgot to centre the steering wheel, idiots. Minor irritations I’ll be getting sorted when I get the chance.
Now the worst bit...
It vibrated like fuck around 50mph+. Put it in to Les Potts, kept it for a couple of days trying to track down the fault, turned out the front prop shaft section was buggered. My wallet was...wait for it...£700 lighter!
It was touch and go whether I was going to get the work done.
Then this...
Not getting up to temperature, heater cold. Knew it was the thermostat and it’s in an awkward place so gave it to Les Potts.
Price of a thermostat replacement on a Freelander...?
Over £600. Yes, six hundred quid! It’s actually the going rate as it’s a big, lengthy job. The part’s only about 50 quid.
No way was I paying that so I brought it home and had a think. I could do it myself, which I know I’m competent enough, but I’m a lazy bastard so looked at alternatives.
The fix? A five quid Renault 5 in-line thermostat stuffed into the engine end of the radiator hose! Now it gets to temperature like any normal diesel- in about an hour!
Now I need to sort out the smoking when cold. It runs perfectly when it’s been going for a few minutes, but has a lumpy, rough idle when just started. One thing I need to sort pronto before the engine self destructs is the oil level, which is well over an inch higher than the max. I’m going to get a pump and draw it out through the dipstick. Maybe that’s the problem? The breather filter mod had already been done, so I ruled that out. When I took the intake manifold off to do the thermostat mod, I found the airways on the manifold and block were lined with about 1/4” of coke, blocked like a fat bastard’s arteries! Any tips for cleaning it off, ie horrible noxious, toxic chemicals? I’ve no problem taking the manifold off to do it, that’s one job that’s a doddle on the TD4!
The only other thing to sort is the OSR door strap. The mount that’s part of the bodywork has snapped clean off. The proper fix is to get it welded. That’s a really shit design, why didn’t they just bolt it on?! I’ll probably fabricate something to sort it.
Apart from all that, it’s a tremendous motor! Seriously, it’s a nice enough drive and very comfortable, but I just know these are just the start of my problems.
try a terraclean. heard good reports on them
How TerraClean Fuel System Cleaning Works | TerraClean
Last edited:
FishburnMackem
Winger
Well cheers for that, I feel so much better now!
Lengthy post ahead, won’t interest, well, anybody TBH!
It’s an old Freelander Sport, mind. 2004! Is has around 98k on it and the bodywork is very good. It runs, and most of the problems I’ve fixed myself. I’m gradually replacing the window regulators. Drivers was the first, passenger is OK, NSR is bust, OSR regulator is groaning, but might just need a lube. All faults I fully expected.
I’ve done the driver’s central locking unit, the NSR needs doing.
The tyres all have rim leaks, including the spare! Whoever did the tracking before I got it forgot to centre the steering wheel, idiots. Minor irritations I’ll be getting sorted when I get the chance.
Now the worst bit...
It vibrated like fuck around 50mph+. Put it in to Les Potts, kept it for a couple of days trying to track down the fault, turned out the front prop shaft section was buggered. My wallet was...wait for it...£700 lighter!
It was touch and go whether I was going to get the work done.
Then this...
Not getting up to temperature, heater cold. Knew it was the thermostat and it’s in an awkward place so gave it to Les Potts.
Price of a thermostat replacement on a Freelander...?
Over £600. Yes, six hundred quid! It’s actually the going rate as it’s a big, lengthy job. The part’s only about 50 quid.
No way was I paying that so I brought it home and had a think. I could do it myself, which I know I’m competent enough, but I’m a lazy bastard so looked at alternatives.
The fix? A five quid Renault 5 in-line thermostat stuffed into the engine end of the radiator hose! Now it gets to temperature like any normal diesel- in about an hour!
Now I need to sort out the smoking when cold. It runs perfectly when it’s been going for a few minutes, but has a lumpy, rough idle when just started. One thing I need to sort pronto before the engine self destructs is the oil level, which is well over an inch higher than the max. I’m going to get a pump and draw it out through the dipstick. Maybe that’s the problem? The breather filter mod had already been done, so I ruled that out. When I took the intake manifold off to do the thermostat mod, I found the airways on the manifold and block were lined with about 1/4” of coke, blocked like a fat bastard’s arteries! Any tips for cleaning it off, ie horrible noxious, toxic chemicals? I’ve no problem taking the manifold off to do it, that’s one job that’s a doddle on the TD4!
The only other thing to sort is the OSR door strap. The mount that’s part of the bodywork has snapped clean off. The proper fix is to get it welded. That’s a really shit design, why didn’t they just bolt it on?! I’ll probably fabricate something to sort it.
Apart from all that, it’s a tremendous motor! Seriously, it’s a nice enough drive and very comfortable, but I just know these are just the start of my problems.
The first thing I do every time I get a new car is find a community via Facebook / forums specifically for owners of that car / model / manufacturer. Anytime any issues come up always use that as a first point of contact for fault diagnosis, doing this has saved be quite a bit of money over the years. Chances are over the years you will acquire a trolley jack and 4 jack stands yourself for convenience, plus if you don't already have any tools you will end up collecting quite a set. Another thing is you get a wealth of "experience" with certain types of vehicles, making future purchasing decisions much more risk free.
I have no mechanical training whatsoever however if a VW golf / bora owner asked me to help them with any suspension, steering, brakes or electrical issue then I'd be confident in doing so. These skills would also transfer over to other vehicles however without the familiarity of the car.
Kevsgreat
Striker
Soz man, think being back at work has got me seeing the worst in everythingCheers! I wasn’t meaning to sound like I was having a dig, sorry if it came across that way.
It’s just a lot of the time you hear things from petrol owners like ‘45mpg’? That’s nowt! My 1L Citroen C1 gets 60+mpg!’ Then I’m thinking ‘Well aye, but... never mind!’
The 130mph was the figure from the spec, BTW! 130mph on public roads could land you in jail.
