Replacing my conservatory roof



Yes I used foil tape to seal gap between insulation and battens. The Celotex comes in different thicknesses so adjusted to suit battens. I think I used 75x50 battens and 50mm Celotex. That ensured a nice air gap between back of celotex and plastic roof.

Keep up the questions, the more you ask the easier the job will be when you start.
cheers got a few more questions
would foil backed plasterboard make and difference or would normal do ? im thinking12mm + plaster will be a bit heavy so going to put 10mm plasterboard on...where you cant get a good fit with the celotex what did you fill with ? foam?
Ive heard buildbase cheapest for 50mm 8x4 kingspan is this right ? anywhere cheaper ?
 
cheers got a few more questions
would foil backed plasterboard make and difference or would normal do ? im thinking12mm + plaster will be a bit heavy so going to put 10mm plasterboard on...where you cant get a good fit with the celotex what did you fill with ? foam?
Ive heard buildbase cheapest for 50mm 8x4 kingspan is this right ? anywhere cheaper ?
You can cut the Celotex/Kingspan really easily to fit small/awkward gaps.
I don't know on the plasterboard as I'm no builder, I was just nervous of the weight. Didn't really investigate it any further than "gut feel".
You can cut the Celotex/Kingspan really easily to fit small/awkward gaps.
I don't know on the plasterboard as I'm no builder, I was just nervous of the weight. Didn't really investigate it any further than "gut feel".
Just done a bit of research on Gyproc site. Looks like 9.5mm plasterboard would have been fine. Only 6.3 kg/m2. Conservatory could have taken glass roof so would have been able to take plasterboard and skim. I'm happy with what I did but 8 years on I would have done it differently.
 
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cheers got a few more questions
would foil backed plasterboard make and difference or would normal do ? im thinking12mm + plaster will be a bit heavy so going to put 10mm plasterboard on...where you cant get a good fit with the celotex what did you fill with ? foam?
Ive heard buildbase cheapest for 50mm 8x4 kingspan is this right ? anywhere cheaper ?

If the celotex has foil backing then plain plasterboard is ok . If the celotex hasn’t foul backing then you need foil backed plasterboard.

The foil is the vapour barrier to stop moisture (warm air)traveling up into
the insulation.

The plasterboard thickness is determined by the rafter spacing- 12.5 for 400cc - 15mm for 600cc.

Support all plasterboard joints / edges with noggins.
 
Otherwise known as @Dougal
How the heck did I get involved in a thread about DIY? I do not drink 'smelly beer' per see; just quality ale! I haven't had a beard in goodness knows how many years, my school teachers were mainly sadistic professionals, so I don't welcome the comparison, and I'm not at risk of Type 2 Diabetes ....... other than that @cornish mackem you're spot on ........ now when do I get me sausages? :)
 
Starting it this weekend and i'm thinking of going down the white pvc ceiling t&g instead of p.board looks cleaner whiter and just needs a wipe down every now and again,My only worry is the ceiling will look a bit too bathroomy anyone go down this route ? thoughts?
 
Starting it this weekend and i'm thinking of going down the white pvc ceiling t&g instead of p.board looks cleaner whiter and just needs a wipe down every now and again,My only worry is the ceiling will look a bit too bathroomy anyone go down this route ? thoughts?

I ve used par ( timber )t and g boards with an eggshell finish - try an off white or even light grey.

Use farrow and ball if budgets permit . IMHO white plastic could look a bit , well , white plastic.

You shouldn’t need to wipe it that often - you ll need to dust it now and again.

Don’t insert spots/ downlighting that may ignite the insulation - ( or melt the plastic if you do go down that route) use a track or pendant.

Good luck.
 
You could be throwing good money after bad here. Conservatory’s are not really habitable rooms - the heat loss is enormous ( that’s why you are replacing the roof I guess). They should be separated from the main dwelling by a thermal break ( ie double glazed doors). You ll still loose heat through the large glazed areas.

A lot of people are simply flopping them and building a garden room with cavity walls and less glazing - a fully insulated tiled roof as well. These are deemed habitable and don’t need thermal breaks.
It will add good value as well.

Food for thought mate.

I’m going to hoy an insulated roof on our conservatory, I’m happy with it having a “thermal break” as it houses the boys drum kit which although has mesh leads and low volume cymbals to mute it by 80% or something, it’s still loud enough to be a nuisance with the double glazed door open, you can barely hear it when it’s shut.
 
I’m going to hoy an insulated roof on our conservatory, I’m happy with it having a “thermal break” as it houses the boys drum kit which although has mesh leads and low volume cymbals to mute it by 80% or something, it’s still loud enough to be a nuisance with the double glazed door open, you can barely hear it when it’s shut.

The air gap in thermal double glazing is a surprisingly high acoustic barrier as well.

Anyway drumming is better than knitting- which on reflection is also a tad annoying.
 
Starting it this weekend and i'm thinking of going down the white pvc ceiling t&g instead of p.board looks cleaner whiter and just needs a wipe down every now and again,My only worry is the ceiling will look a bit too bathroomy anyone go down this route ? thoughts?
Its whats known in the trade as "Gannie Cladding". Plasterboard and skim it.
 
You could be throwing good money after bad here. Conservatory’s are not really habitable rooms - the heat loss is enormous ( that’s why you are replacing the roof I guess). They should be separated from the main dwelling by a thermal break ( ie double glazed doors). You ll still loose heat through the large glazed areas.

A lot of people are simply flopping them and building a garden room with cavity walls and less glazing - a fully insulated tiled roof as well. These are deemed habitable and don’t need thermal breaks.
It will add good value as well.

Food for thought mate.
This

This

And this again
 
Are you a dog? if not why did you bark at the end of your thread title?
 
Just about ready to go but working it out its going to be deep.
14mm gap between inner polycarbide face and edge of roofbar (this will be my gap between insulation and roof)
50mm x 50mm screwed to roof bars then 50mmm kingspan inbetween roof bars ,but then i will have to cross brace the kingspan with 2x1 or 2x2 at 400centres to take the 10mm plasterboard + 2mm skim
so loss of ceiling after could be 112mm with 2x2 or 87mm with 2x1 brace but i dont think the 2x1 will be rigid enough for the p,board
 
Just about ready to go but working it out its going to be deep.
14mm gap between inner polycarbide face and edge of roofbar (this will be my gap between insulation and roof)
50mm x 50mm screwed to roof bars then 50mmm kingspan inbetween roof bars ,but then i will have to cross brace the kingspan with 2x1 or 2x2 at 400centres to take the 10mm plasterboard + 2mm skim
so loss of ceiling after could be 112mm with 2x2 or 87mm with 2x1 brace but i dont think the 2x1 will be rigid enough for the p,board

Min 38 x 38 battens for plasterboard mate. 450 cc.

Or make the joists deeper and push fit the Kingspan between them - fit plasterboard to joists - no cross battens.
 
The roof bars are 980mm apart so i would have to frame it out to get to roughly 450mm centres and dont know if the timber will be seen from the outside ? also the foil kingspan covering with the logo on may be seen from the outside ? thinking i may have to paint or cover the internal side of the polycarbide with something or else when you look from the outside you will see 2x2 timber frames and the kingspan logo on the back
nowt straightforward.😕
 
The roof bars are 980mm apart so i would have to frame it out to get to roughly 450mm centres and dont know if the timber will be seen from the outside ? also the foil kingspan covering with the logo on may be seen from the outside ? thinking i may have to paint or cover the internal side of the polycarbide with something or else when you look from the outside you will see 2x2 timber frames and the kingspan logo on the back
nowt straightforward.😕

Indeed - you ll need to Matt Black the inside of the polycarbide or it will look like a b and q warehouse.

Probably win the Stirling Prize for architecture though.
The roof bars are 980mm apart so i would have to frame it out to get to roughly 450mm centres and dont know if the timber will be seen from the outside ? also the foil kingspan covering with the logo on may be seen from the outside ? thinking i may have to paint or cover the internal side of the polycarbide with something or else when you look from the outside you will see 2x2 timber frames and the kingspan logo on the back
nowt straightforward.😕

PS the foil on the Kingspan needs to face the room - not the roof - it acts as a vapour barrier to protect the insulation from moisture of the warm air rising from below.
 
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Indeed - you ll need to Matt Black the inside of the polycarbide or it will look like a b and q warehouse.

Just as i thought ,will normal matt black paint take to the polycarbide and be ok ? i.e not flake off after a year or so.
Probably win the Stirling Prize for architecture though.
😂
 

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