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For definite, as I've read conflicting reports. If it does, then PC Specialist definitely won't do it, and I doubt it's something I'll do myself on a brand new build.

If PC specialist offer the service, they'll honour the warranty. Doing it yourself - void. I did it because there is no real worry. My temps are down 30 degrees on all cores.

Even if you are going to put the tiniest of overclocks on the chip, you'll need it doing
 
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If PC specialist offer the service, they'll honour the warranty. Doing it yourself - void. I did it because there is no real worry. My temps are down 30 degrees on all cores.

Even if you are going to put the tiniest of overclocks on the chip, you'll need it doing

Cheers mate. I'll see what PC Specialist say.
 
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The Kabylake chips are terrible for temps, they used an inferior heat sync and they burn out quickly under load. Basically, you remove the head from the chip and apply either liquid silver or a better thermal paste. Fixes the issue
Nightnare.
 
I would have went with a better PSU. Corsair are a great manufacturer, but are very average in the PSU department. That one is considered Tier 3. I'd also have went for a bigger wattage margin. A system draw of 551w will peak much more than that and hit the 650w limit easily. Should have went for 800w+.

Quality PSUs are often overlooked, even by system builders.

http://i.imgur.com/361pNaI.png
 
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I would have went with a better PSU. Corsair are a great manufacturer, but are very average in the PSU department. That one is considered Tier 3. I'd also have went for a bigger wattage margin. A system draw of 551w will peak much more than that and hit the 650w limit easily. Should have went for 800w+.

Quality PSUs are often overlooked, even by system builders.

http://i.imgur.com/361pNaI.png

On PC Specialist, it actually gives you what the maximum required wattage will be, and I'm told it'll be 575, so I should be fine with the 650 for now, but I can always upgrade later.

I also used this website... http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

Which estimates at load it'll be 530w
 
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Can't wait for this beast to arrive...

Case: GAME MAX FALCON BLACK GAMING CASE (RGB LED)
Processor (CPU): Intel® Core™i7 Quad Core Processor i7-7700k (4.2GHz) 8MB Cache
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z270X-Ultra Gaming: ATX, LG1151, USB 3.1, SATA 6GBs - RGB Ready!
Memory (RAM): 32GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR4 2666MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card: 11GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 1080 Ti - HDMI, 3x DP GeForce - GTX VR Ready!
1st Hard Disk: 2TB SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 64MB CACHE
M.2 SSD Drive: 128GB M.2 2280, SATA 6Gb/s (534MB/R, 150MB/W)
DVD/BLU-RAY Drive: 12x BLU-RAY ROM DRIVE, 16x DVD ±R/±RW
Power Supply: CORSAIR 650W CS SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable: 1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling: Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler w/ PCS Liquid Series Ultra Quiet Fans

Question is, will it run Crysis...
Nursing a semi here
 
Bloody typical! If I'd waited I could have bought the 7700k for less than the £320 I payed for the 6700k just a couple of months ago. :evil:

Bloody typical! If I'd waited I could have bought the 7700k for less than the £320 I payed for the 6700k just a couple of months ago. :evil:
Edit: Just checked out a few benchmark tests on actual games rather than pure CPU number crunching and they perform almost identically so I'm not too upset now. :D
 
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Bloody typical! If I'd waited I could have bought the 7700k for less than the £320 I payed for the 6700k just a couple of months ago. :evil:


Edit: Just checked out a few benchmark tests on actual games rather than pure CPU number crunching and they perform almost identically so I'm not too upset now. :D

There's a speed difference of apparently about 8% in favour of the 7700K, so not too bad.
 
Nice build man! Is that PSU not overkill though?
It can never be overkill. Power in watts is drawn not pushed. So if a PSU that can supply 800w and the CPU/GPU only pulls 600w, that's all that will be used. You'll often see the smoothness of the voltage fluctuate if you pull power near a PSU's rating as well as drop-outs. It gets even more complicated when you have overload on a particular rail when others have little load on them.
 
It can never be overkill. Power in watts is drawn not pushed. So if a PSU that can supply 800w and the CPU/GPU only pulls 600w, that's all that will be used. You'll often see the smoothness of the voltage fluctuate if you pull power near a PSU's rating as well as drop-outs. It gets even more complicated when you have overload on a particular rail when others have little load on them.
And it cost me nowt as I ripped it from my old rig. :cool:
 
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