Homebrewing - Part 3



Wilfy said:
This.

Or try cold crashing if you have the gear.
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Or failing that, transfer to a secondary fv (leaving all the trub in the primary), give it a week then bottle. You could even add finings at that point if you really wanted to. Adds to the risk of oxidisation tho.

Different yeasts will drop shit out faster (can’t remember the proper word, floculate?) which might help a bit.

It’ll obviously compact down the longer it’s left in the bottles and make it easier to pour especially if it’s stored cold. Oh, and a final thought, if the carb level is too high that could force the sediment from the bottom of the bottle when it’s opened.
 
DoctorMick said:
Or failing that, transfer to a secondary fv (leaving all the trub in the primary), give it a week then bottle. You could even add finings at that point if you really wanted to. Adds to the risk of oxidisation tho.

Different yeasts will drop shit out faster (can’t remember the proper word, floculate?) which might help a bit.

It’ll obviously compact down the longer it’s left in the bottles and make it easier to pour especially if it’s stored cold. Oh, and a final thought, if the carb level is too high that could force the sediment from the bottom of the bottle when it’s opened.
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Cheers that’s really useful as I am only getting started. I bought a second hand fridge for the garage so I could cold crash but that didn’t help as much as I thought it would. At the moment I bottle from the primary fermenter and tried using a filter but it was too coarse so most of the crap goes into the bottles. I will be looking to keg as soon as I am allowed a beer fridge in our kitchen.
 
Gordon Ottershaw said:
Any tips for producing clearer beer? I am drinking my West Coast IPA and it looks like a UTI. I used Irish moss in the boil but there is still loads of sediment in the bottles. Tastes nice mind.
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Not a problem I'm troubled with much, touch wood. In my early days I used finings but now I don't bother and usually it's all OK (hope that doesn't come across as smug!). I think time is a big factor. My own process is based on 2/2/2. 2 weeks in primary fermentation, keg or bottle after that, 2 weeks in secondary for carbonation and then another 2 weeks to clear, preferably in a colder environment. Makes it a long job but I think it's worth it and if you can get a rolling brew process going you need never have to be without good beer. Having said all that, I have been guilty of consuming a barrel well before it was at its best on a number of occasions! I'm also using kits and I've just spotted that you're probably doing all grain which is another kettle of fish! I have done it in the past but can't remember how it turned out so I may be talking out of my arse. I do think the time thing is important though!
 
rokerexile said:
Not a problem I'm troubled with much, touch wood. In my early days I used finings but now I don't bother and usually it's all OK (hope that doesn't come across as smug!). I think time is a big factor. My own process is based on 2/2/2. 2 weeks in primary fermentation, keg or bottle after that, 2 weeks in secondary for carbonation and then another 2 weeks to clear, preferably in a colder environment. Makes it a long job but I think it's worth it and if you can get a rolling brew process going you need never have to be without good beer. Having said all that, I have been guilty of consuming a barrel well before it was at its best on a number of occasions! I'm also using kits and I've just spotted that you're probably doing all grain which is another kettle of fish! I have done it in the past but can't remember how it turned out so I may be talking out of my arse. I do think the time thing is important though!
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Thanks this is really good info for me. I think you are right I and I will delay things for my next batch. I have a Neck Oil clone on the go which has been in the fermenter for 10 days so far. I was planning to cold crash tomorrow but might leave it a few more days.
 
I’ve tried a couple of times and found home brewing a reet faff on.

You would not do your own dentistry so I leave my beer production to the professionals and I will be selling all my kit soon. I have fermentations vessels, pressure vessels, bottles, the lot. All in the loft.
 
Gordon Ottershaw said:
Thanks this is really good info for me. I think you are right I and I will delay things for my next batch. I have a Neck Oil clone on the go which has been in the fermenter for 10 days so far. I was planning to cold crash tomorrow but might leave it a few more days.
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I'm not pretending to be the Oracle on this but it works for me. My secondary fermentation is done at room temperature so unless you're very impatient (and I know that feeling) I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to cold crash, although I don't know what style of beer it is you're producing so it may be appropriate. In my process, if I'm kegging it stays in the same room for the final stage, if I'm bottling I remove the bottles to a fridge in my barn. Both methods seem to work. Ultimately, as others have pointed out, if it tastes good, that's the main criterion but there is a lovely sense of satisfaction if it can look good too.

https://flic.kr/p/2pzwL6h
 
Gordon Ottershaw said:
Thanks this is really good info for me. I think you are right I and I will delay things for my next batch. I have a Neck Oil clone on the go which has been in the fermenter for 10 days so far. I was planning to cold crash tomorrow but might leave it a few more days.
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I’ve never been a fan of the 2-2-2 method personally, I started doing that and quickly realised it’s not idea for all styles and it’s certainly not a process professional breweries follow. For some styles is works a treat, for others you’ve missed some of the time where the beer was at its peak and if you’ve got any oxygen in to a hoppy beer it’ll be going downhill rapidly by 6 weeks. You just need to play about and find what works for you.
 

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