Car problem advice needed : bmw 1 series cam chain

I’ve got one.

The engine pulls like a train and sounds like no other hot hatch. Not too bad on fuel - 25mpg and I get about 300 miles to a tank. On Eco Pro I got 38mpg driving to Leeds and back.

The B58 is strong but on 2017-18 models there was a common exhaust problem which caused the flap in the silencer to rattle like fuck. Bmw used to fit an M performance exhaust as a replacement (that’s what I have) but I think they’ve changed the engine management so it doesn’t happen now.

Don’t expect more than about 10k off a set of rear tyres and don’t expect to be able to drive in snow unless you’ve got a set of winter tyres on it. There’s too much torque even in Eco Pro mode to get power down.

Definitely go for the sport auto box as well. It has 8 gears rather than 6 in the manual so the engine is always in the best position to make use of the torque.

400bhp is easy achieved as well. Even as standard the car will happily bounce off the 155 mph limiter with more in reserve.

Spot on cheers and to others that replied.

The earlier 135, does that have this dodgy engine type in then?
 


This is from Honest John's website, which is spot on for info on all cars, new and used. The 'infamous' quote is worrying. Dealer might just say 'everybody knows these can snap a chain'!

17-8-2016: Report of timing chain of N47 2013 BMW 116d being replaced under warranty in 2015. Owner now worried that will still suffer from the same infamous N47 tensioner problem
 
Spot on cheers and to others that replied.

The earlier 135, does that have this dodgy engine type in then?

No it’s only the M140/240 that has it.

I wouldn’t worry about it to be honest. It’s got loads more character than a Golf R / S3. Only engine that comes close is the RS3 and that’s about £15k more expensive.

Down the A19? ;)

Fastest I’ve gone is 71 and I was horrified I’d broken the law.
 
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No it’s only the M140/240 that has it.

I wouldn’t worry about it to be honest. It’s got loads more character than a Golf R / S3. Only engine that comes close is the RS3 and that’s about £15k more expensive.



Fastest I’ve gone is 71 and I was horrified I’d broken the law.
I'm pretty sure that the rozzers don't monitor this place for speeding marra.
 
It is an infamous problem with the n47. But wasnt it sorted after build year 2011? I seem to remember reading that when i was researching my 520d?
 
Just back on here after a day out at Rugby

Thanks for the replies - I’ll go through them tonight.

Garage are ringing me in morning to confirm damage/£
 
I’ve got one.

The engine pulls like a train and sounds like no other hot hatch. Not too bad on fuel - 25mpg and I get about 300 miles to a tank. On Eco Pro I got 38mpg driving to Leeds and back.

The B58 is strong but on 2017-18 models there was a common exhaust problem which caused the flap in the silencer to rattle like fuck. Bmw used to fit an M performance exhaust as a replacement (that’s what I have) but I think they’ve changed the engine management so it doesn’t happen now.

Don’t expect more than about 10k off a set of rear tyres and don’t expect to be able to drive in snow unless you’ve got a set of winter tyres on it. There’s too much torque even in Eco Pro mode to get power down.

Definitely go for the sport auto box as well. It has 8 gears rather than 6 in the manual so the engine is always in the best position to make use of the torque.

400bhp is easy achieved as well. Even as standard the car will happily bounce off the 155 mph limiter with more in reserve.
I’m getting more than twice MPG than you are. Used to work on BMWs why I own a Kia.
 
Thanks for this - when we bought it we were given 3 months warranty and when I explained he would hardly be driving it until his test in Feb 19, we agreed 6 months. I actually asked at time about cam belt (as its high mileage diesel) but he said "its a cam chain and they don't need replacing".

As its only done 460 miles since he had it (Dec 7th 2018) then I believe it falls under the criteria here:

If you're past the first 30 days but a problem has arisen that you think would have been there at the time of purchase, you're entitled to ask for a repair or replacement free of charge.

In most cases this will be a repair, as whoever sold the car to you will usually be able to prove that the cost of replacing it would be disproportionate.

During the first six months after purchase, it's the responsibility of the seller to prove the fault wasn't there, not for you to prove that it was.


I’m assuming it hasn’t snapped and is just stretched, if so ship about for quotes but go somewhere reputable.

My advice: approach BMW initially to see if there is any sort of recall or if they can make a policy decision to fund some of the repair as a known issue.

At the same time, approach the selling dealer with the same arguement but that he’s only done 450 miles, a chain doesn’t stretch in 450 miles so it 100% is a pre-existing issue.

The chances are he’ll get no immediate joy from either which means he’d have to go down the ombudsman route for resolution, nothing to waste other than time.

How long he has had the vehicle is a factor, if it’s less than a mo th he can hand it back under Sales of Goods.

Keep everything in writing between him and the selling dealer.

Let me know if you require any help.

Will do , thanks

Ooo look at me my son drives a BMW.

Pathetic.
:lol:I've insured him on a Juke in meantime - doesn't have same street cred, but hes chuffed just to be out and about.
 
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Thanks for this - when we bought it we were given 3 months warranty and when I explained he would hardly be driving it until his test in Feb 19, we agreed 6 months. I actually asked at time about cam belt (as its high mileage diesel) but he said "its a cam chain and they don't need replacing".

As its only done 460 miles since he had it (Dec 7th 2018) then I believe it falls under the criteria here:

If you're past the first 30 days but a problem has arisen that you think would have been there at the time of purchase, you're entitled to ask for a repair or replacement free of charge.

In most cases this will be a repair, as whoever sold the car to you will usually be able to prove that the cost of replacing it would be disproportionate.

During the first six months after purchase, it's the responsibility of the seller to prove the fault wasn't there, not for you to prove that it was.




Will do , thanks


:lol:I've insured him on a Juke in meantime - doesn't have same street cred, but hes chuffed just to be out and about.
Aye but the burden of proof is yours in that situation. So you need to prove it was there from the start. That is the difficult part.

I’d be civil at first and see if they’ll chuck something towards it, plus the warranty chuck their bit. If they have their own workshop they might do it at cost with no labour or something.

Only go down the route of quoting SoG if they don’t play ball. You can pay to get the oil tested too (check SAE rating etc.) which could help with that proof.
 

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