Any builders on here...?


Kent_Mackem

Striker
My exterior kitchen wall is Victorian aged 9" brick with no insulation. The inside of the wall is fecking freezing on a cold day and it's just acting as a heat sink. I'd like to help keep the house warm by giving that wall a fur coat.

Other than cost factors, which would be better: insulated plasterboard stuck straight onto the wall or build a stud frame and fill it with insulation then plasterboard over?

Many thanks for any sensible advice amongst the usual expected (shit in her knicker draw) replies. :)
 
My exterior kitchen wall is Victorian aged 9" brick with no insulation. The inside of the wall is fecking freezing on a cold day and it's just acting as a heat sink. I'd like to help keep the house warm by giving that wall a fur coat.

Other than cost factors, which would be better: insulated plasterboard stuck straight onto the wall or build a stud frame and fill it with insulation then plasterboard over?

Many thanks for any sensible advice amongst the usual expected (shit in her knicker draw) replies. :)
Is the wall damp at all, and is it rendered?
 
Is the wall damp at all, and is it rendered?
Actually in my house in Bristol - I have a similar issue .

1910 build - so thick solid wall - rendered on the outside .

This is front bedroom 1st floor - this wall is always dead cold in winter ( for obvious reasons ) ..... and a cupboard has been built into the chimney breast space (but shelves are fixed straight onto brick wall )

the wall adjacent to outside gets covered condensation / mould in winter Within the cupboard ( especially if it's full of stuff). Obviously just moisture in the air accumulating on the wall inside the closed cupboard

Tried using a special paint, putting vents in the cupboard doors, humidity capture device - to no avail Reallybl

Is the answer to basically line the wall with insulated plaster board or similar - or simply plywood so the cold wall is covered ?
 
My exterior kitchen wall is Victorian aged 9" brick with no insulation. The inside of the wall is fecking freezing on a cold day and it's just acting as a heat sink. I'd like to help keep the house warm by giving that wall a fur coat.

Other than cost factors, which would be better: insulated plasterboard stuck straight onto the wall or build a stud frame and fill it with insulation then plasterboard over?

Many thanks for any sensible advice amongst the usual expected (shit in her knicker draw) replies. :)

IF you can I would fix this type of thing to the wall first IKO enertherm ALU Insulation Board - IKO Group read about the thermal blurb here What are U-values, R-values and Lambda Values? | Kingspan GB

Then plasterboard (dot and dab) to the insulation board. Depends if that is possible (kitchen units etc.)
 
Actually in my house in Bristol - I have a similar issue .

1910 build - so thick solid wall - rendered on the outside .

This is front bedroom 1st floor - this wall is always dead cold in winter ( for obvious reasons ) ..... and a cupboard has been built into the chimney breast space (but shelves are fixed straight onto brick wall )

the wall adjacent to outside gets covered condensation / mould in winter Within the cupboard ( especially if it's full of stuff). Obviously just moisture in the air accumulating on the wall inside the closed cupboard

Tried using a special paint, putting vents in the cupboard doors, humidity capture device - to no avail Reallybl

Is the answer to basically line the wall with insulated plaster board or similar - or simply plywood so the cold wall is covered ?
If you are getting condensation and mould, you have a ventilation issue probably mate. Cupboards either built in alcoves, or up against outside walls create cold spots for moisture to settle on. They are bastards for it marra.

Difficult to tell without actually seeing it marra, but don't just go dry lining with plasterboard over it until you have someone in to see it mate. Could create even bigger problems.
 
My exterior kitchen wall is Victorian aged 9" brick with no insulation. The inside of the wall is fecking freezing on a cold day and it's just acting as a heat sink. I'd like to help keep the house warm by giving that wall a fur coat.

Other than cost factors, which would be better: insulated plasterboard stuck straight onto the wall or build a stud frame and fill it with insulation then plasterboard over?

Many thanks for any sensible advice amongst the usual expected (shit in her knicker draw) replies. :)
Will watch this thread as exactly the same as me, need to do something before next winter as this was our first year in the house and it was beyond a joke at times. It's also an open space with the main living area that the kids spend all their time in.
Is the wall damp at all, and is it rendered?
We do have a bit damp like but the other side of the outside wall gets nailed by the rain and I'm not sure about the state of the pointing. It's in quite a specific patch above the built in cupboards rather than the corners etc. Hard to know what to do for the best
 
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Will watch this thread as exactly the same as me, need to do something before next winter as this was our first year in the house and it was beyond a joke at times. It's also an open space with the main living area that the kids spend all their time in.

We do have a bit damp like but the other side of the outside wall gets nailed by the rain and I'm not sure about the state of the pointing. It's in quite a specific patch above the built in cupboards rather than the corners etc. Hard to know what to do for the best
Difficult without seeing it, but repointing or rendering it would probably be worthwhile marra, before you even think about anything internally. Covering damp or condensation before you cure the problem creates a whole new world of trouble mate.
 
We had a utility room that was double brick and the room was always cold. I battened it out with 25mm roof tile battens and filled between them with celotex /kingspan type insulation boards. It made a big difference. It would have been better with double that thickness of insulation but I didn't want to lose the room space because of kitchen units and a fixed boiler.
I taped all the joints in the boards and also put a vapour barrier over the battens and insulation before the plasterboard went on.
 
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We had a utility room that was double brick and the room was always cold. I battened it out with 25mm roof tile battens and filled between them with celotex /kingspan type insulation boards. It made a big difference. It would have been better with double that thickness of insulation but I didn't want to lose the room space because of kitchen units and a fixed boiler.
I taped all the joints in the boards and also put a vapour barrier over the battens and insulation before the plasterboard went on.
Did you choose the insulation boards because they were cheaper, easier or more effective? I'm thinking battens and filling with either loose or the boarded insulation, then plasterboard over the top because I can do that myself. I'm not certain I woudln't make a pig's ear of insulated plasterboard and getting somebody to do it obviously ramps up the cost.

For the vapour barrier - what is the rationale behind having between the battens/insulation and the plasterboard rather than between battens/insulation and exterior wall? I'm not suggesting it's wrong - just trying to get the reasoning sorted in my non-DIY head.
 
Difficult without seeing it, but repointing or rendering it would probably be worthwhile marra, before you even think about anything internally. Covering damp or condensation before you cure the problem creates a whole new world of trouble mate.
Thanks mate, think I'll get it rendered like. Would love to sort the insulation etc. when I replace the kitchen but can't really afford to do it all right now so will need to think of something.

Some great advice on this thread as always!
 

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