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- Thread starter Morphious
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Morphious
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This is one of the photos I took at the weekend. Would love some feedback of you guys
https://flic.kr/p/ovdVVU
https://flic.kr/p/ovdVVU
Lonz
Striker
Well composed/cropped etc. It's hard to say whether you'd be able to improve without know the kit you have at your disposal and how far away you were etc. It's obviously very difficult to capture moving objects like that without a motion blur and still be in focus so the camera has to have a good AI SERVO system (and some talent behind the camera as well 
).
).If the EXIF data on your photo is correct, it looks like you shot in full auto mode which chose the following settings:
ISO : 100
F20 aperture
1/100th sec exposure.
Those aren't great settings for shooting fast moving subjects like that as you will always get some blur due to the motion - this amplifies using a long lens like you are.
You should be aiming at getting a high shutter speed so a higher ISO value and larger aperture (smaller number) will achieve this
The larger aperture will give you a shallower depth of field, but that is fine when you are shooting a single distant target like this.
ISO 400 wouldn't be a problem on the 400D
So - I think you could improve on the photo and make it sharper by switching to Av mode (which still automatically exposes correctly when it can) and increasing the ISO and the aperture to as wide as you can - this will in turn give you the best shutter speed it can. The only gotcha, is if is too bright and the camera shutter speed won't go high enough (in that case it will flash in your viewfinder) if this happens, reduce the aperture size or the ISO.
As Lonz says, you should use AI servo focusing mode too (this tracks the moving target and continually corrects the focus whilst you follow it).
Also when taking photos of planes, or similar, I dial in some positive exposure compensation as the camera automatics will tend to try and expose correctly for the huge expanse of sky which leaves you with a dark aircraft...but that is the next lesson.
This is one I prepared earlier (worse framing than yours!) and is using better kit that you are (which does make a big difference with these sort of shots), but using a much faster shutter speed (1/1600th second) which sharpens things up.
ISO : 100
F20 aperture
1/100th sec exposure.
Those aren't great settings for shooting fast moving subjects like that as you will always get some blur due to the motion - this amplifies using a long lens like you are.
You should be aiming at getting a high shutter speed so a higher ISO value and larger aperture (smaller number) will achieve this
The larger aperture will give you a shallower depth of field, but that is fine when you are shooting a single distant target like this.
ISO 400 wouldn't be a problem on the 400D
So - I think you could improve on the photo and make it sharper by switching to Av mode (which still automatically exposes correctly when it can) and increasing the ISO and the aperture to as wide as you can - this will in turn give you the best shutter speed it can. The only gotcha, is if is too bright and the camera shutter speed won't go high enough (in that case it will flash in your viewfinder) if this happens, reduce the aperture size or the ISO.
As Lonz says, you should use AI servo focusing mode too (this tracks the moving target and continually corrects the focus whilst you follow it).
Also when taking photos of planes, or similar, I dial in some positive exposure compensation as the camera automatics will tend to try and expose correctly for the huge expanse of sky which leaves you with a dark aircraft...but that is the next lesson.
This is one I prepared earlier (worse framing than yours!) and is using better kit that you are (which does make a big difference with these sort of shots), but using a much faster shutter speed (1/1600th second) which sharpens things up.
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Blackcats by rogerzz, on Flickr
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Morphious
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I was actually in AV mode and chose that shutter speed to cature a littke bkur in the bkades rather than have them look like the blades were stationary. I was stood next to the stage setup for the flights and nearly all my photos were shot at 300mm on a canon 70-300mm lens. Unfortunalty it doesnt have image stability on it.
Thabks for the replies chaps. I do have some more but thought it pointless adding them to the group as mine dont seem to filter through
Thabks for the replies chaps. I do have some more but thought it pointless adding them to the group as mine dont seem to filter through
Ok, the only way you will see the blades spinning is as you say, a relatively slow shutter speed. The problem with that of course is the helicopter is also moving so you can't win!
Image stabilisation won't normally help a great deal when you are tracking moving targets anyway. I just rely on a fast shutter to freeze things.
Keep adding things to the group, people can still see them on flickr, and I am keen to find out why they aren't in the feed.
Image stabilisation won't normally help a great deal when you are tracking moving targets anyway. I just rely on a fast shutter to freeze things.
Keep adding things to the group, people can still see them on flickr, and I am keen to find out why they aren't in the feed.
Steeeeed
Winger
Something on the composition; for a subject like this, with negative space around it, I would try to have it facing / moving towards the biggest two thirds of the scene. So for this shot, that would mean it being further to the right, meaning it looks like its heading into the space on the left. I feel that it gives it a sense of movement and direction.
I am of course assuming its cropped. You wouldn't want to cut the back end of it off to accommodate my recommendation.
Also, I think your sensor could do with a clean, there's a couple of dust spots.
I like the rotor movement btw.
I am of course assuming its cropped. You wouldn't want to cut the back end of it off to accommodate my recommendation.
Also, I think your sensor could do with a clean, there's a couple of dust spots.
I like the rotor movement btw.
Steeeeed
Winger
Aye, be careful!
Depends how stuck the dust is, but quite often you will be able to get rid of it by locking the mirror up then using something like a rocket blower or clean air spray to literally blow the dust off the sensor
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